Important Tip: DO NOT use peat pots,
peat pellets, or potting soil that is mostly peat.
Why do my pepper plants often bloom but fail to set fruit?
Peppers, like tomatoes, are sensitive to temperature. Most peppers will drop
their blooms when daytime temperatures get much above 90 degrees F. in
combination with night temperatures above 75 degrees F. They will also drop
their blooms in the early spring if temperatures remain cool for extended
periods. Hot peppers, such as jalapenos, withstand hot weather fairly well and
can often produce fruit through the summer in most areas. Optimum temperatures
fall between 70 degrees and 80 degrees F. for bell-type peppers and between 70
degrees and 85 degrees F. for hot varieties.
If I remove the first few blooms on a pepper plant, will my overall production
be increased?
Occasionally, if a bell pepper plant sets the first bloom that flowers, the
plant will be stunted as it matures that fruit. This is likely to happen if the
plant is growing under marginal conditions which might include low fertility or
perhaps low moisture. With the first bloom removed, the plant will grow larger
before setting fruit which often does result in higher total yields.
If you plant hot peppers beside sweet peppers, will the sweet pepper
plant produce hot fruit?
No, Pepper flowers are self-pollinated, although occasionally
cross-pollinate. However, the result of this crossing will appear only if seed
is saved from this year's crop and planted next year. It will not result in
off-flavor or differences in fruit characteristics of this year's crop.
Can I cut back my spring planted pepper plants in late summer or early
fall for increased production later?
Yes, although this is not a recommended practice. In the northern parts of
the state spring-planted pepper plants can often be carried through to first
killing frost without pruning. However, in southern parts, judiciously pruning
the pepper plants and applying additional fertilizer as a sidedress application
can prolong pepper production until the first killing frost. Pruning should not
be severe in southern parts of the state as excess foliage removal can often result
in burn, stunting or death of the plants.
Is there any difference in taste or nutritive value between green peppers
and those that mature and turn red?
Peppers that are allowed to mature and ripen entirely, from green to yellow
to red, are higher in vitamin content, especially vitamin A. There is little
difference in taste although there is a considerable difference in texture
caused by the ripening process.
How can you tell when jalapeno peppers are mature?
Jalapeno peppers are edible and flavorful at all stages of their growth. A
fully mature jalapeno pepper, regardless of size, generally exhibits small
cracks around the shoulders of the fruit. Often a darkened area on the fruit
indicates maturity and the initial stages of a color change in the fruit.
Can I save seed from this year's pepper crop for planting in my next
garden?
Yes, Peppers are self-pollinated and consequently will breed if seed is
saved from this year's garden for planting in next year's garden. Although an
occasional cross-pollination will occur, this is generally not a problem. Do
not save seed from hybrid pepper plants as these will not breed true and will
result in plants exhibiting characteristics different than the desired hybrid.
The foliage on my pepper plants developed spots or lesions and the leaves
have dropped off.
This could be a combination of three foliage diseases: Alternaria leaf spot,
Cercospora leaf spot and bacterial leaf spot. In most cases, two or more of
these occur simultaneously on the foliage. They can be controlled with foliar
sprays using a combination of chlorothalanoil and Kocide or any other copper
fungicide. Begin at the first sign of the disease and continue at 1- to 2- week
intervals during the critical disease periods.
The foliage and fruit of my pepper plants are distorted and small. The
leaves have a mosaic pattern.
This could be one of five viruses that attack peppers in Texas.
The best control is to buy healthy plants. The viruses are transmitted by
aphids, when a plant becomes infected with one of the viruses, remove the
plant.
After the recent rainfall, my plants wilted and died soon. The inner
stems of the plants were dark.
This is Phytophthora stem rot. It is a soilborne fungus that attacks
peppers. It is particularly severe in areas where water stands around the
plant. Plant in a JackPot for optimal drainage.
After a summer rain, my pepper plants died rapidly. I found a white
growth at the base of the plant. Intermingled with this growth were small,
round, bead-like structures the size of a pinhead.
This is southern blight, caused by a soilborne fungus. Crop rotation and
deep burial of organic material will help control it. Do not allow leaves to
collect around the base of the plant because the fungus will feed on them and
later develop on the peppers.
There are small wiggly trails all over the leaves of my pepper plants.
What are these?
These trails are caused by leaf miners. Heavy infestations can defoliate
plants and reduce yields.
We have just moved to this area and enjoy the Mexican food. What makes
Mexican food so hot? Is it the pepper they add?
The cooks add pepper alright but not the black stuff you shake from a can -
they add green peppers, Capsicum annum. These peppers contain a chemical named
capsaicin. When you eat these "green bullets from hell" there's a
cellular response that releases neurotransmitters. These are proteins that
mimic chemically the sensation of burning or pain. They go to the end plate of
our sensory nerves and create the sensation of pain. The body's response is to
remove the chemical irritant by increasing heart rate to increase metabolism,
by increasing salivation and increasing sweating. Your nose runs and the
gastrointestinal tract goes to work in high gear to remove the irritant. You
sweat to cool yourself.
The body's strong reaction to capsaicin is why many people claim chili has
medicinal properties. A paper by a New Mexico
biologist noted that the death rate from heart disease in the state was about
half the national rate. She also said the rate of heart disease among Hispanics
and Indians was low. Presumed reason? They all eat lots of chile pepper and
that reduces blood fat levels. Hot peppers are said to protect against blood
clots that could cause thromboembolism.
So why do folks eat this hot food? When people eat hot chili the brain
secretes endorphins, the opiate-like substances that block pain. Endorphins are
produced when runners "hit the wall" and get their second wind. Who
needs to jog and watch their diet? Just eat peppers and keep on burning!
We have 2 bell pepper plants, in containers, that have until recently
been very healthy and produced several beautiful peppers. Within the last week
or two the peppers have developed small round tannish spots on the some of the
fruit. The fruit were not fully developed, but we harvested then in order to
save the fruit, if possible. In cleaning the fruit, the only damage is the
small spot or two on the bottom of the peppers. I thought perhaps it was
sunscald, but these plants have plenty of leaves. Could they be getting too
much sun and would moving them to a shadier location help?
Tan or translucent spots on developing pepper fruit is DEFINITELY sunscald.
All the young pepper has to be exposed to is a few minutes of direct sun during
the hottest part of the day and that does it. Remember the last time you burned
your body parts the first sun exposure of the spring?! The same situation! If
you can see the pepper on the plant SO CAN THE SUN and it is not protected. A
bacterial spot would be black so you can rule that out. You did right by
removing the fruit; such removal may stimulate more foliage growth and
subsequently more fruit protection.
HISTORY
The pepper, native to the tropics of Central and South America,
has probably been cultivated for thousands of years. Archaeologists exploring
prehistoric caves in Peru
have found the remains of pepper seeds.
South America, Spain,
England and the
Caribbean all played roles in the introduction of the
pepper to North America. Columbus
explored the seas in search of a better trade route to the Indies.
Dangerous, lengthy overland journeys made spices an expensive commodity for
Europeans. When Columbus reached
the Caribbean, he tasted a vegetable being grown by the
Indians. Its sharp taste reminded him of the familiar black pepper from the East
Indies and so he called this vegetable "pepper," as we
do to this day. However, Columbus
was incorrect as the newly found vegetable was not the pepper of "salt and
pepper" (Piper nigrum) but an entirely different genus, Capsicum.
He brought peppers back to Spain
where they were considered an appealing alternative to the more traditional
spice. The instant popularity of the vegetable is apparent from the comment of
Peter Martyr, writing in 1493 that "...in the New World
can be found plants hotter than pepper of Caucasus."
(He was referring to Piper nigrum.) From Spain
the cultivation of the pepper soon spread to the rest of the continent and England.
History does not tell us whether peppers reached North America
via Europe or the Caribbean.
The first of the English immigrants to the colonies brought the seed of
precious vegetables with them to plant in the New World.
By the middle of the 18th century, North Americans could import many varieties
of flowers and vegetables from England.
John Randolph (1727-1784) of Williams-burg, Virginia
wrote a treatise on vegetables grown in the New WorldMount Vernon
indicate George Washington grew a "cayan" pepper.
colonies. In the essays, he referred to "Capsicum...it should be gathered
before the pods grow hard for pickles." Research conducted by the National
Garden Bureau found that records kept at
CLASSIFICATION
There are over 20 species of pepper but only one is commonly known to North
American gardeners, Capsicum annuum. This species contains the pepper varieties
widely cultivated in North America. Although Hortus
lists five groups within the C. annuum species, we will refer to peppers as one
of two kinds--sweet or hot.
SWEET PEPPERS
Bell--This pepper is mostly
blocky in shape with three or four lobes on the bottom of the pepper. For
years, gardeners could choose only one color of bell, a green that matured to
red, Through modern breeding efforts e can now grow bell peppers that mature to
an artist's palette of colors including red, yellow, orange, lavender, purple
and chocolaTe. The bell peppers have a crisp, thick flesh and are suitable for
eating fresh, or stuffing and baking.
Paprika--When dried and ground, this thin-walled pepper becomes the
flavorful condiment paprika.
Pimiento--This heart-shaped pepper measures 3 1/2 by 4 1/2 inches. Fruits
have very thick flesh. Strips of this fully mature, bright red, mild tasting
pepper are found in stuffed greenolives.
Sweet Banana, Sweet Hungarian, Cubanelle--All of these are also referred to
as sweet frying or pickling peppers. The shape is long, narrow tapering down to
one, two or three lobes. These are thinner-walled than bells and Cubanelle has
the thinnest walls of the three. They are usually picked when immature as a
light yellow or green. Because they have less water content than bells, they
are excellent choices for frying. 'Sweet Banana' is a variety that has
withstood the test of time--it was a 1941 All- America Selections Winner.
'Gypsy,' a 1981 AAS Winner is early to mature--only 62 days and performs very
well in cotainers as well as in regular gardens.
Sweet Cherry--Here is a pepper that looks like its name in that it is globe
or cherry-shaped and about 1 1/2 inches across. This pepper is harvested when
mature green to deep red and is generally used in processing as pickled.
HOT PEPPERS
Cayenne--This pepper is slim and
tapered, ranging in length from 3 1/2 to 8 inches. Cayennes are often dried.
The hybrid 'Super Cayenee' is a 1990 All American Selections Winner. It is very
productive, early to mature and hot, hot, hot.
Red Chili--The small cone-shape peppers of this type are 1 to 3 inches long
and have medium thick flesh. They are often used dried and ground in chili
powder. 'Super Chili,' a 1988 AAS Winner is the first hybrid chili. The compact
plants were bred for increased yields.
Green Chili--These are the long (7 to 8 inch) green, two celled mildly pungent
Anaheim type peppers that are so
flavorful in chile rellenos. They turn red at maturity but are nearly always
harvested, green, roasted and peeled. They're the kind you'll find in the
canned goods section of supermarkets labeled "Green Chile Peppers."
Hungarian Yellow Wax (also called Hot Banana)--This pepper is pungent but
still one of the more mild "hots." It is 5 to 6 inches long and
picked when an immature greenish yellow color but matures to orangish red. This
type is good for pickling or canning.
Jalapeno--Jalapenos are the popular peppers used in many Mexican entrees.
They are 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches long and have a thick-walled pungent flesh. They
may be harvested when immatue green or mature red and are good for pickling or
canning. There are many varieties of jalapeno peppers with varying degrees of
pungency. It has been said that more than 200,000 pounds of jalapeno seed is
planted in Mexico
annually.
Red Cherry--This hot pepper is only 1 1/2 inches across and ahped like a
cherry. It may be used fresh or pickled, primarily pickled.
Red Hot Peppers--There are other Capsicum annuum in the Longum Group that
add distinct flavor to their native regional cuisines. These vary in plant and
fruit size and shape. Smaller plants are attractive in patio containers and
hanging baskets. These scorchers such as Chili Tepine, Chile Peguin, Tabasco,
and Thai, mature red and zest-up foods. Many additional kinds are available.
Small hot yellow peppers like Cascabella and Santa Fe Grande are used primarily
for canning and pickling. There is the hot Serrano type that is popular in the
Southwest. There is Habanero, said to be 50 times hotter than Jalapeno peppers.
PLANTING
Choose a sunny area of the garden as peppers need full sun to blossom and
set fruit. Growth in full sun will result in a more productive plant. Select a
spot protected from the wind as pepper plants have shallow, easily disturbed
roots and brittle branches. A strong wind may break stems or completely uproot
the plants.
The plant will perform best in well drained soil with adequate nutrition for
plant growth. To insure adequate nutrition use fertilizes or work in
well-rotted compost when preparing the garden soil in the spring.
A pepper plant does not take up a lot of garden space, at least when
compared to vines like watermelon or pumpkin. Depending on the variety, most
pepper plants will measure 2 to 3 feet tall. A half dozen plants should provide
a family with a summer long crop of peppers. Gardeners with limited space can
even grow peppers in containers. A large patio container will support one of
the compact varieties such as 'Gypsy.'
SOWING SEED
Many gardeners start seeds indoors early, then transplant to their garden,
but seeds can be planted directly into prepared garden soil in long season
areas. Sow pepper seed outdoors once the soil temperature has warmed to 75
degrees F. Place seed 1/4
to 1/4 inch deep, cover with finely textured soil and water gently but
thoroughly. Peppers need moist conditions to germinate and are hungry for water
during the seedling stage and throughout the growing season.
HOW TO SELECT BEDDING PLANTS
No time to sow and grow from seed? Head to the local nursery or garden
center. You will find pepper plants that are just the right size for
transplanting into the garden. Look for healthy plants that are green with with
strong foliage. Yellowed leaves, spindly stems or sparse foliage indicate the
plant is not thriving and probably will not perform well in your garden.
TRANSPLANTING
The same procedure and care are recommended for planting bedding plants or
peppers home grown from seed. Wait until the weather has warmed to a daytime
temperature of 65 to 70 degrees F. and nighttime temperature above 55 degrees
F. To help warm the soil, black plastic may be placed on the ground. Slits can
be made in the plastic to accommodate the plants.
Space plants about 2 feet apart. This distance will vary slightly depending
on the variety. Rows should be spaced at least 2 feet apart. This will allow
enough air circulation for the plants, permit easy cultivation and harvest. A
time release fertilizer can be added to the soil now according to directions on
the package. This fertilizer releases nutrients into the soil for about 120
days.
GROWING ON
Peppers should grow rapidly given warm day and night temperatures. During
this period of rapid growth be sure to provide adequate water and nutrients.
Water the soil before plant foliage begins to droop or show signs of wilting.
Take care to watch plants and look for any insect problems. Most locations in North
America can grow any type of hot or bell pepper without any major
problem.
If you notice blossoms dropping of your pepper plant, temperature may be the
reason. The pepper is a warm season vegetable. It grows and produces fruit when
the soil and air temperatures are warm. The temperature range for fruit set is
quite narrow. When nighttime temperatures fall below 60 degrees F. or above 75
degrees F., blossoms are likely to drop and fruit will not set. Daytime
temperatures above 90 degrees F. will also inhibit fruit set, but fruits will
again begin to form when cooler daytime temperatures appear.
INSECT PESTS
Gardeners may find that pests cause occasional problems. Early detection can
prevent damage; inspect plants frequently for telltale signs of insects;
presence. Large insects can often be removed from the plant. Any damaged leaves
or stems should be removed and destroyed. Insects often make their homes among
garden debris, quickly moving on to healthy plants. Remove debris from pruning
or weeding once the yard chore is finished. If increasing insect populations
appear, contact a garden center or a countyExtension agent for information
about insecticides to reduce insect populations.
Aphids are a major souce of pepper problems. They are very small insects
(under 1/10 inch) found clustered on the undersides of leaves and on new
growth. As they feed they suck plant juices; leaves become yellowed and
distorted. They can sread all viruses, particularly Cucumber Mosaic Virus.
Thrips are another likely source of pepper problems. These small flying
insects congregate by the undreds. Thrips are active insects, wounding plants
to suck sap like aphids. Thrips damage leaves which generally curl upward into
a "boat-shape." These insects can infect peppers with Tomato Spotted
Wilt Virus (TSWV).
DISEASES
While there are many viruses that can harm peppers, the following are the
most prevalent in North America.
Tobacco Mosaic Virus--Leaves become yellow and a mosaic pattern can be seen
on them. Eventually plants become stunted and fruit discolored. Because TMV can
be found in tobacco, refrain from smoking near the plants. Do not handle plants
after smoking tobacco. Many pepper varieties have resistance or tolerance to
Tobacco Mosaic Virus.
Wilt diseases--These are caused by the fungi Verticilium and Fusarium
present in the soil. The initial symptoms are wilting, upward curling of
leaves, and yellowing. Eventually the stems and roots of the plant are
affected. Verticilium wilt is more common in the western and northern parts of North
America. Fusarium wilt is more likely to occur under conditions of
wet soil and high temperatures.
Phytophthora root rot is caused by organisms found in heavy, poorly drained
soils. These diseases are best prevented by good water management and crop
rotation.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus--Plants are severely stunted with light green,
leathery foliage. Leaves and fruit may develop yellow spots and rings. This
virus is worldwide and can infect many food crops and weeds. Aphids can transmit
CMV from weeds to vegetables and back to weeds.
Viruses and wilts are not very common in gardens. If a pepper plant appears
to have the symptoms of a wilt or virus, the only action to take is to remove
and destroy the plant.
There is no cure for a wilt or virus. Plants can be burned or put through a
garbage disposal, if small, but do not allow the plant to be put into a
community or home compost pile where the virus or wilt could infect other
plants.
HARVEST
Peppers may be harvested and enjoyed when immature or mature. There is not a
"best" time ti harvest, let personal taste preference be the guide.
Remember that sweet peppers become sweeter as they mature and hot peppers come
hotter.
To harvest, do not pull or tear a pepper from a plant. Peppers have shallow
root systems and it doesn't take too forceful a pull to dislodge the etire
plant from the ground. Fruits of many varieties will easily snap off at the
tem. With some varieties you will need to use a sharp knife or scissors to cut
the fruit stem from the plant. Harvesting regularly will encourage the plant to
keep blossoming and setting fruit, especially early in the growing season. If
the temperature just drops belwo 32 degrees F. for a short time, covering the
pepper plants will protec them from damaGe. At the end of the growing season
such as September in Minneapolis,
if there is a threat of killing frost, pick all fruit regardless of the size.
This is the last harvest for the plants.
COOKING WITH HOT PEPPERS
A cautionary note on preparing HOT peppers for storage or cooking. The
"heat" in hot peppers is an oil called capsaicin that is contained in
the placenta (membranes that join the seed to the fruit). This oil will easily
get on hands and fingers during the cutting and cleaning process.
If you then rub your eyes, nose or mouth, the oils will be transferred to
these areas with a distinctly painful burning. Wear plastic gloves while
cutting the hot peppers to prevent any of the oil from covering your hands. Wash
hands after preparing is finished. Do not rub your eyes!
Should you forget to use caution and end up with burning hands, gel from the
leaf stem of an aloe vera plant offers immediate relief when applied to hands
or other burning areas. Use the gel carefully. A 10 percent solution of chlorox
will also neutralize.
The temperature of a 'hot' pepper can be controlled by using or excluding
the seed san dplacenta of the pepper when cooking. If you wish a dish to be
'hot' include the hot pepper parts. If you want less heat, use the flesh only
and dispose of the placenta and seeds.
STORAGE
Peppers may be stored fresh, frozen, dried or pickled. Peppers will continue
to ripen after being picked. Store peppers at room temperature if you wish them
to ripen. The ripening process will be slowed if the peppers are stored under
cool conditions. If whole fresh peppers are placed in plastic wrap and stored
in the refrigerator, they should keep for at least a week.
Peppers are among the easiest of vegetables to freeze. Most peppers such as
sweet bell or jalapeno need not be cooked or blanched prior to freezing. Simply
wash, slice open and remove seeds. They may be cut into strips, chopped or
diced and placed in a freezer container. Once thawed the peppers will be soft
but well-suited for use in soups, stews or cooked vegetable dishes.
Mature peppers may also be dried for long term storage. Make a Mexican
ristra, a long string of dried chili peppers that can be hung on the wall for
easy accessiblity as well as a colorful decoration. Use fresh chili peppers
leaving the stems on. Make a small slit on each side of the pepper just below
the stem. Insert a needle and thread through these slits and string the peppers
together. Hang in a warm dry place. Use them in appropriate recipes or as a
decoration. To dry "hot" peppers such as jalapeno, use waxed dental
floss because the capsaicin oil dissolves thread.
NUTRITION
Peppers are the right food for people seeking a healthy, nutritious diet.
Low in calories, high in Vitamins A and C, peppers are also high in a very
important mineral--potassium. One cup of raw sweet green peppers contains 22
calories. For comparison a cup of cucumber is 16, cottage cheese is 223 and
whole orange is about 41 calories.
A red sweet or hot pepper contains about ten times more vitamin A and double
the amount of Vitamin C than an immature green pepper. A 100 gram serving of
red hot peppers eaten raw contains 369 milligrams of Vitamin C. The same
serving size of sweet raw green pepper contains 128 milligrams, about one third
less.
Whether green or red a pepper contains more Vitamin C than a whole orange
which contains only about 50 milligrams. For potassium rich foods, an average
banana contains 370 milligrams and a cup of green sweet pepper has 213 mg raw
and 149 mg if boiled before being eaten.